Відео

Carbon dinghy will be more brittle which is not good thing for a dinghy, which must stand lot of beating abuse around. Use glass fiber or kevlar or dynema on top of CF hull, so it can withstand punctures and hammering which carbon cant. 😉🤓

The OC has a flat spot on the stern bottom for one reason only... to fit a jet drive (that they offer as an option) If you don't need such a thing, the soft dead rise you show would be easier to build without the flat. Having a flat portion at the chine is quite common and the general rib design uses it's pontoons for this.... in fact the pontoons create a bit of a tunnel on either side to trap air and reduce friction while moving through the water.... of course it also helps with stability at dock. But rubber or vinyl is pretty heavy and the average soft boat of 9ft is 120lbs :P Even a solid plywood boat can do much better than that.

My understanding is the reason the marinas aren’t filled is because of the crime/gov

Ever notice how the women on these reviews always handle the domestic stuff and the man does the technical equipment and nav stuff

We have an oc tender and love it. We will be in the bvi's in a week if you want to take another look. Take a look at the AS Tender for the rounded bow you're talking about.

Consider using a lee board that can be moved from one side to the other and stowed flat in a molded floor socket. Also consider a gaff rig, which can be stowed in the boat too. Besides freeing up storage space on Athena, being able to conveniently stow the sailing components in the dinghy keeps it handy for emergencies.

Don’t be ridiculous. There are a hundred actual boat builders that would love to take your money And video it.

The OC Dinghy´s advanced hull shape, is very much dictated by it´s aim at being a great sailboat as well. What you have designed Mads, is a speedboat. If you wish to properly sail the boat with a small rig, you need to put the sailing qualities (of a sailboat) at the forefront, when designing the hull shape, and adjust for the planing qualities afterwards. You will end up with something more similar to the OC Tender, just shorter, with a rounded bow.. Good luck

Have you seen the AS Tender , similar to OS but with a more rounded bow , excited to see what you come up with ! Love your videos

I have a theory about the orcas, I believe that may be a nursing ground for them and people don’t realize it yet.

Correct me if I am wrong but your battery bank is 450w, if the 35w runs for 10hrs it will essentially drain your batteries. I think 35w is also generous, it’s typically 42.

The dingy build is gonna be awesome

Mads, you might like to try a free hull design and analysis program called Delftship to run various ideas for the tender build. Cheers Eric E

"Palm Trees and Polar Bears." hahahahaha

I have several of that flanges failing… after I made it out of co-ni

I wouldn't copy what Boeing does it will probably fall apart

The OC and OneTenders are fantastic boats, all be it different designs and have both set the benchmarks very high. The OC hull design with its deep chine and flat section on the bottom of the v hull enables easy planning, good tight handling and stability at rest with heavy offset loads such as standing on the gunwales. One of my pet hates is a rising bow before you get onto the plane meaning you have to shift your weight to the front of the tender so having such a wide bow could affect this dramatically and not for the better? I would also put in a floor liner with additional foam underneath that will improve buoyancy for safety and give a flat bottom to the inside of the hull. This would be simple to do and not add too much weight and the benefits will outweigh the cons. I look forward to your project, best off luck.

There are several boat building forums, i think you could stsrt a thread on “open scource" dingy plans and ideas. There are a lot of knoleable folks out there, beteer to learn a lot before lofting starts.

Hi , your always full of great fun and ideas , that is freedom ? doing it your way and always asking ? Your point of balance is just over the next horizon . Keep your videos coming and we will see you there .😉👍

Dyi is why I’ve watched for ten? Years?

“To make a long story short…”. NO, PLEASE DON’T. We like your long stories.

Hi Mads, happy to have you pick my brain any time you need as long as you promise to keep a log of your build hours. 😅 Really appreciate your praise and support. Russ. P.S I love whatsapp, typing is a pain!

An important design criteria is to optimize surface area in order to achieve maximum sanding surface.

Three things to make your hull cleaning easier and preserve your paint. 1. Get a 12 inch drywall knife. That 4” knife is useless. 2. Get glazier suction cups. Attach to your hull just above the waterline and you can reach 6 ft with your drywall knife without your hookah. Twice as fast. 3. Keep those pads away from your anti fouling paint. The drywall knife is all you need to reactive the paint rather than sanding it off.

You should look up Cerny Yacht Tender series. I’m building the 11 feet tender. It’s pretty much the design you are looking for. They can scale the design up or down.

Looks a lot like a Dyer Dhow

I had the opportunity to operate a carbon OC tender over a number of weeks and in varying conditions (fully loaded, unloaded, calm, choppy). We had a 2-stroke 15hp Yamaha OB on the transom and it was a blast...on plane almost instantly. However, the ride was incredibly stiff and had, what my butt determined, was zero flex. The coamings were great as steps for entry and exit but when sitting on them in anything but perfectly calm conditions it was tough on the tailbone. The lightweight, for the length/size, also makes it very lively in choppy conditions when compared to a similar size more traditional dinghy (even an aluminum hull RIB type) and this can make loading/unloading at the mothership more interesting. I certainly recommend thinking about how you might be able to increase the ride comfort a bit without sacrificing too much of the OC Tender design's good initial stability and overall sportiness. Also, carbon might have the cool factor but e-glass might be a better option due to its increased flexibility (and ability to withstand impacts with less damage).

The flat patch at the bottom of the dinghy is good thinking. It's called a pad. Add self-bailing qualities to your list. Scow-bow is another good idea, it adds internal volume to feel like it was a bigger boat as you go forward. To eliminate pounding you transition from 8-9° deadrise at the stern to 16-18° deadrise at the bow. The pad gives you a flat bottom when on plane that offers efficiency. I have an idea on how to make a cheap very strong foam core I've been playing with. I used it to make another type of structure start with Luan board (like a very thin ply). Epoxy 2 sides and edges, use it for an outer skin, then Luan again as an inner skin. Use 1"x1" spacers (maybe 1.25" high?) throughout every 12" in every direction to hold the 2 layers evenly and uniformly apart so there's a cavity between the 2 sheets. Now inject expanding urethane foam in between. The result will be very very strong and light. Layer of glass over the finished product. I am unsure about how you will hold the hull curvature and angle transitions, but this is the method I'd like to experiment with myself.

🍎👍

You might want to consider Basalt cloth as it is greener, cheaper and has better impact resistance than carbon. Would definitely go down the 2nd hand windsurf sail/mast/boom combination as others have suggested.

The UA-cam channel The Art of Boat Building made the dinghy for Acorn to Arabella. Your build may be quite different but there’s may be some good information that might help you.

Må jeg foreslå du kaster et blik på Limbo jollerne. De er en mellemting mellem en katamaran og et enkeltskrog. Jeg har ikke selv sejlet i en, men de bliver altid lovprist for deres sødygtighed på trods af den "flade" bund.

Hi Mads, Take a look at an WW2 LCVP landingcraft and the idea behind that. they made channels underneath the boat to prevent cavitation.. see: ua-cam.com/video/ylUrgVIdZ3I/v-deo.htmlsi=Duz1l31kihLcBIP_. Also there is a similar dinghy like an OC-tender and it's called an AST tender. a beach 340.

I'm not a bit interested in vacuum infusing teak. I have a Taiwanese trawler with a teak deck and need info on how to restore it.

Mads - hopefully your CAD program gives you center of volume at various waterlines. I’ve forgotten how to scale weights, but it is definitely in line with scaling water volume. Your design should have been a little bow down to account for the motor, gas tank and you in the back. You need to account for at least you. (Maybe you’d sail without the motor or with the battery one.) Anyway at a given load and estimated dingy hull weight, you should be able to get a center of volume (buoyancy) and then work your design to where your weight centers and CB line up. (It’s been a long time since I’ve studied naval architecture and used it, but I’ll look up on my shelf and see if I can find you a book.)

He should have sold the boat and ran for his life far far away

$40 each way 😂 Bro knows where the catch is. Great vid as always!

If you’re considering using it as a sailing dinghy , you may need a centre board.

re: Dinghy. Expensive proposition of 3000$! To be sure the form fits the purpose why don't you built it first with scrapwood: a few stations and then plywood, less curvy design will do also. the bow can be squared off. Weekend job and the try it out on calm waters. It has to last only a few hours and a few waves

How about a fan with more than one speed? Slow and quiet at night, fast and loud during the day?

I'm not experienced with hull design of power boats very much, but I'm a naval architect. From my point the bow you designed is way to voluminous,it will slow the boat down when hammering into the waves. Instead to achieve more volume under water sharpen the V forward so the bow will set into the waves more comfortable and smoother. At the same time the planing surface is rotated a bit which will lift the bow in planing mode and let the crew stay a little dryer.

When in the USA why not “borrow” a tender and flip it over and use it as a mold.. That would make things go faster and you would incorporate all aspects of the hull design . I’m not a boat designer , just lazy

Mads, I'd suggest considering a couple of steps moulded into the transom either side of the outboard well for climbing in and out perhaps with a moulded grab handle

A flat bottomed boat won’t be sail able 16:48

I love sailing but for watching, DIY/building is the best. I usually stop watching sailing channels once the boat is built/fixed

The flat section on the bottom is a delta pad. You want one!

PT11 Nesting Dinghy ua-cam.com/video/LpwEScmVx6s/v-deo.html ptwatercraft.com/ptwatercraft/PT11Home.html

I would think the easiest way to find the hull shape you like would be to go test drive as many as you can, then copy the design of the one you like the best. Matt from Duracell just finished building his dingy and I bet her knows lots of builders and has many ideas.

Your 2nd dinghy attempt was looking good, bar the high transom. Don't forget outboard weight and buoyancy projections either side of it, you don't want to be bow high. We stuck with Hypalon and a rigid hull - at 3m strangely enough, although air leaks are a pain. Your best bet is probably a straight copy of a proven design, don't reinvent the wheel!